Walked: 37Km.

It was a grueling walk today. The route goes on (not along, on) a river bed which usually carries a trickle of water—if any—but it has rained a lot this season. And thank God because this land is thirsty, but I'm guessing the Camino association that decides the route didn't account for this, because there's no alternative route.

The first part I braved with cleverness: the parts I could not jump, I carried large rocks and threw them into the stream. Its usual depth is ankle deep so it was easy setting up a bridge as to not get my shoes wet. The parts where it was too deep to set up rocks, I took off my shoes. This was the most cumbersome method as my feet would be muddy by the time I reached a place where I could put my shoes. I used a face towel to remove the mud and then put my shoes back on.

These techniques were effective and fun to a certain degree, but also very time consuming and eventually I got hungry and lost patience. I reached a town with an albergue and was ready to call it a day, but I met a retired Australian couple at the bar. I complained about the river. They shrugged and said it was OK. I was incredulous. "Really? But how did you cross the stream?"—"Oh, we've done this way four times already. There's never been as much water as this year, but we always carry water shoes".

I looked at my own "barefoot" shoes. Of course! All I needed to do was to remove the insoles and then I'd be able to walk in the water. They would dry out relatively quick because they're made of a single fabric and a flat plastic sole.

This technique proved to be super effective and allowed me to reach the town of Abla, which was still 17Km upstream with just a little chaffing along my ankle.


Being social has proven to be the most difficult part of the camino, as usual. This is the first albergue where I've encountered other pilgrims. There's this Spanish man who screams when he speaks, and will speak only politics. Followed me around the albergue explaining why French society is better because of their political awareness. A Spanish woman who is a coach and spoke to me about an hour about her self-discovery trip to Asia (it only ended when I excused myself to shower), and an Irish man who looks and speaks as if he had low IQ. He complained to me that this was the worst stage he has walked in the 10 caminos he's walked, and went on and on about his worst experiences walking.

This is a madhouse, and I'm not above these people. I must be annoying in my own way. Perhaps aloof and detached. I'm writing my entry now sitting at the breakfast table. The Spanish man is serving himself breakfast and I'm making my best effort to appear focused so that I'm not interrupted. People don't seem to catch on the cue when I don't want to speak. I was typing furiously when the Spanish man, who is having breakfast, commented that the coffee was good and that stores open at 6am. He just asked if I am Argentinian... I don't know how to draw boundaries in a polite way, so I just prefer fade away.

This is work for this camino, I'll continue working on it.